Carnevale di Mamoiada

1 / 3 2 / 3 © Ezioman 3 / 3 © Ezioman

The Carnevale di Mamoiada (Carnival of Mamoiada), a unique and deeply rooted tradition in the heart of Sardinia, is one of Italy's most fascinating and mysterious folkloric celebrations. This festival, held in the small town of Mamoiada in the Nuoro province, is famous for its eerie yet captivating masked figures known as the Mamuthones and Issohadores. The origins of this centuries-old ritual remain uncertain, yet it continues to captivate locals and visitors alike with its powerful symbolism and dramatic performances.

The Carnival of Mamoiada, also known as "The Dance of the Mamuthones", has been celebrated for centuries, though its exact origins are shrouded in mystery. Some historians believe the festival has pre-Christian roots, possibly linked to ancient rites of fertility and agricultural rituals. Others suggest it commemorates the struggles between Sardinian natives and foreign invaders, symbolizing resistance, and resilience.

The two main figures of the festival are the Mamuthones and Issohadores. The Mamuthones, twelve in total representing the months are clad in dark, heavy sheepskins and wear grotesque black wooden masks with solemn expressions. They carry large cowbells on their backs and bronze bells on their chest, which create an eerie, rhythmic sound as they move in a synchronized, ritualistic procession. This sound is believed to ward off evil spirits or symbolize the cycle of nature and life. In contrast, the Issohadores, have a white mask with a colorful handkerchief tied at the chin. They wear a white shirt, a red waistcoat, loose trousers, leather boots and a sash that hang the sonajolos (small rattles). the main accessory is the soha a lasso that drapes over one shoulder as they hold it in their hand. This is used to playfully capture spectators, a gesture that is said to bring good luck and fertility.

The festival officially begins on January 17th, on the feast of Saint Anthony the Abbot, a day traditionally associated with fire and purification. Huge bonfires are lit throughout Mamoiada, and this is where you get your first glimpse of the masked figures as they make their way through the streets of the village. They reappear on carnival Sunday and Fat Tuesday. The Mamuthones move in a slow, synchronized, and almost trance-like manner, their bells ringing in unison with every step. This intense and haunting display is accompanied by the Issohadores, who move with agility and grace, occasionally throwing their lassos to "capture" chosen individuals, often young women, and notable figures in the crowd.

Another fascinating aspect of the Carnival of Mamoiada is Juvanne Martis Sero, a peculiar and theatrical farewell to the festivities. This event takes place on Shrove Tuesday, marking the end of the carnival season. Juvanne Martis Sero is represented by a straw puppet dressed as an old man, symbolizing the end of the winter season and the excesses of carnival. He is carried through the streets by men dressed in black, who humorously lament his impending "death."

As they proceed, they stop at local bars and homes, theatrically asking for wine to "revive" Juvanne Martis Sero. The performance blends satire, dark humor, and community participation, reinforcing the carnival's role as both a celebration of life and a reminder of its fleeting nature.

The Carnival of Mamoiada is not just an event; it is an experience-one that immerses you in the spirit of Sardinia. Whether seen as a ritual of renewal, a celebration of endurance, or simply a gathering of a close-knit community, it leaves an unforgettable impression on all who witness it.

For anyone seeking to explore Sardinia's mystical and ancient heart, there is no better time to visit Mamoiada than during carnival season.