The Processione dei Misteri di Trapani

"Wound to the Side" - Trapani Mysteries - Esparco86

If you find yourself in the heart of Trapani on Good Friday, you will not just see a procession; you will feel the very soul of Sicily. For over 400 years, the Processione dei Misteri (Procession of the Mysteries) has transformed the narrow, winding streets of this coastal city into a moving theater of devotion, art, and ancient tradition. It is one of the oldest and longest-running religious events in Italy, lasting a staggering 24 hours.

The origins of the Mysteries date back to the 17th century. At the heart of the procession are twenty elaborate sacred groups made of wood, canvas, and glue, each depicting an instance from the Passion of Christ. These are not just statues, but masterpieces of Baroque craftsmanship created by Trapanese artists in the 17th and 18th centuries. Each sacred structure entrusted to a specific guild that represents various trades and crafts within the city (see below for a list of guilds and the sculptures). Members of these guilds take immense pride in preserving their assigned sacred group.

At 2:00 PM on Good Friday, the heavy silver-encrusted doors of the Church of the Holy Souls in Purgatory (Chiesa delle Anime Sante del Purgatorio) swing open. One by one, the sacred groups emerge, perched on the shoulders of the Massari. Because these statues weigh several hundred pounds, the bearers use a unique rhythmic gait known as the annacata. They sway to the right then the left slowly moving forward three steps then back two steps, synchronized to the mournful cadence of brass funeral marches. This makes the statues appear to be walking as they wind through the narrow streets of Trapani. It is a hypnotic sight that brings tears to the eyes of the faithful lining the streets.

As the sun sets over the Mediterranean Sea the streets are illuminated by the glow of thousands of candles held by the incappucciati (hooded penitents). The air filled with the scent of incense and beeswax. The emotional climax occurs Saturday morning as the procession returns to the Piazza Purgatorio. This is where the annacata takes on a more significant meaning. One by one as each group crosses through the door to the Church of the Holy Souls in Purgatory, the annacata is more emphasized and lengthened making it more sorrowful and mournful. The final group, the Addolorata (Our Lady of Sorrows), is always the most poignant. Covered in a black veil and surrounded by flowers as she searches for her son. When the doors finally close a silence falls over Trapani as the city reflects until the joy of Easter Sunday.

If you ever have the chance to visit Sicily during Holy Week, do not miss the Mysteries of Trapani. It is more than a parade. It is a powerful reminder of the deep roots of Italian culture and the enduring power of tradition and belief.

Below are the 20 groups in order of the procession, along with their respective guilds.

The Separation - guild of the Goldsmiths
The Washing of the Feet - guild of the Fishermen
Jesus in the Garden of Gethsemane - guild of the Farmers
The Arrest - guild of Metalworkers
Jesus falls into the Cedron Brook - guild of the Sailors
Jesus before Hanna - guild of the Grocers
The Denial - guilds of the Barbers and Hairdressers
Jesus before Herod - guild of the Fishmongers
The Flagellation - guilds of the Bricklayers and Stonemasons
The Crowning with Thorns - guild of the Bakers
Ecce Homo - guild of the Shoemakers
The Judgement - guild of the Butchers
The Ascent to Calvary - The People, citizens and denizens of Trapani
The Disrobing - guilds of the Drapers and of the Cloth Merchants
The Elevation of the Cross - guild of the Carpenters
The Wound to the Chest - guilds of the Painters and Decorators
Descent from the Cross - guilds of the Tailors and Upholsterers
The Transport to the Sepulchre - guild of Saltpan Workers
The Sepulchre - guild of Pasta Makers
The Sorrows - guilds of the Drivers, Hoteliers, Bartenders, Waiters, Cooks, Confectioners and Taxi Drivers.

Related Articles & Resources:

• Dance of the Devils (U Ballu di Diavulu)
• Easter and Lenten Traditions
• La Madonna che Scappa in Piazza
• La Naca di Catanzaro